What Can Go Wrong
Most of the garage doors we get called out on in Boerne aren't new installs with bad luck - they're original equipment from when the house was built.
Minimal original build specs
A lot of this area went up between 1972 and 2005, median year 1997, and builders in that window mostly put in the lightest steel door and the smallest torsion spring that would pass inspection at the time.
Fatigued spring and panel
Thirty years later that spring is fatigued, the steel panel has a soft spot from a decade of expansion and contraction, and the track is worn in a shape that matches the old door, not a new one. When we replace a door on a house from that era we're rarely swapping just the panel.
Old hardware mismatch
The drums, the cables, the rollers, sometimes the jamb brackets - all of it was sized for 1990s hardware and doesn't carry over cleanly to a modern insulated door. Skipping that and bolting a new door onto old track is how you get a door that looks fine in the driveway and binds the first humid week after install.

The Symptom
The giveaway is usually a door that used to open quiet and now doesn't. It catches halfway, the opener strains and reverses, or one bottom corner sits a half inch lower than the other when it's down. On older steel doors you'll sometimes see a faint horizontal line a few inches up from the bottom panel - that's the seam where two layers of steel were glued around a foam core, and it's starting to separate.
If your house falls in that 1980s-90s construction wave that covers most of the built-up pockets here, and the door has never been replaced, a sagging or binding door isn't really a repair question anymore. It's a sign the whole unit - door, springs, track - is past the point where patching one part buys you more than a few months.
Doing It Yourself
A torsion spring under tension can break a hand or worse, and getting the drum-and-cable geometry wrong on install is the single most common cause of a door that runs crooked from day one.
Spring tension stays professional
We won't talk anyone through doing that part themselves, and we're straight about it: if you're comfortable swapping weatherstripping or tightening hinge bolts, fine, but setting spring tension and squaring a new door to an old opening is not a first-timer job.
Out-of-square jamb limits
The honest limit on our end is this - if your opening or jamb is out of square from decades of settling, a straight swap-in install isn't always possible without some carpentry first, and that's a conversation we have before we quote the job, not after.
Why It Happens Here
Boerne sits in a mild climate band that still gets an occasional freeze, and that swing matters more than people expect. It's not extreme cold doing the damage - it's the repeated expansion and contraction through warm days and cool nights that works on the glue line in older double-layer steel panels and loosens the fasteners holding torsion hardware to the jamb.
Layer that onto a service area with roughly 15,024 owner-occupied houses, most built in that 1972-2005 stretch, and you get a lot of doors hitting end-of-life in the same rough window. At a median household income of $135,120, most owners here choose to replace the door and opener together once it starts acting up, rather than keep patching an original unit that's already outlived what it was built for.
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